A lens stamped 1. Prime lenses have only one focal length, while zoom lenses have a range of focal lengths. Smaller numbers are wide-angle lenses. The larger the number, the more zoomed in you can get. A reading of mm is a focal length range. It means that you can change your focal length.
The widest angle is 18mm, and you can zoom in to 55mm. Common zoom lenses are mm, mm, and mm. But zoom ranges vary by manufacturer. This is the measurement, in millimetres, around the outside circle of your lens.
You need to know the size of your camera lens if you are buying a filter or a lens cap. This is the minimum focusing distance for the lens. This number matters mainly for photographers who like to get close to their subjects. A camera lens that shows 0. The numbers are equal but expressed in two different measurement systems.
If you move the lens closer than 0. On a zoom lens, the focusing distance may be a range of numbers. A lens reading 0. At the widest focal length, the focusing distance is 0. But when zoomed in, the focusing distance is 0. Telephoto lenses between 70 — mm are very popular lenses for portraiture and product photography as well as nature and wildlife imagery.
They allow the photographer to produce close crops on the subject. In the case of portraiture a telephoto allows the photographer to take the photo at a distance that does not intrude upon the subject. These lenses provide a good range for wildlife and sports photography where the photographer is limited as to how close they can get to the subject.
Close-up photography uses a specific range of lenses that allow up to reproduction. These lenses allow the photographer to focus very close to the subject and reproduce them at a life-size ratio on film or an imaging sensor.
These lenses are popular for subjects such as flowers, insects and small products. By clicking Sign Up, you are opting to receive educational and promotional emails from Nikon Inc.
You can update your preferences or unsubscribe any time. Search Articles. Glossary Off On. What they are used for: In addition to being used to photograph subjects you can't or don't want to get close to - like sports or wildlife - telephoto lenses can be used for shooting portraits and even landscapes where their normalization of relative size can be used to give a sense of scale.
What they are : Superzooms are do-it-all lenses which cover focal lengths from wide to telephoto. They can be good for uses in situations where you can't or don't want to be changing lenses and they normally change in length as you zoom. Image characteristics: Because compromises have had to be made producing a do-it-all lens, superzooms do not have the same image quality of more dedicated lenses and often have slower and variable maximum apertures.
What they are used for: Offering a one-lens package, superzooms come into their own if you can't or don't want to change lenses. This could be when in situations where it wouldn't be safe to switch lenses, or when travelling - you don't necessarily want to be weighed down by five lenses when on holiday with the family. What they are : One of the more specialist lenses, marco lenses are technically those which are capable of reproduction ratios greater than However, the term is frequently used to refer to any lens which can be used for extreme close-up photography.
Macro lenses typically have focal lengths somewhere between mm. Image characteristics: Macro lenses normally have excellent image sharpness, though it's worth noting that when working at close distances they also have a tiny depth of field.
You can often end up with a shot of an insect where only a fraction of it is in focus. What they are used for: Though normally used for close-up photography at which they excel , macro lenses can also be great for portraits thanks to their typical sharpness and focal lengths.
With changes in focal length and maximum aperture come another set of lens changes, namely size, weight and price. Ideally we'd all be wielding a mm F1. Unfortunately, not only does physics dictate that such a lens would need to be huge and very heavy, it would also cost a fortune to produce, if it was even possible. As such, any lens is going to make compromises to fit into a package of a size and weight which suits its users.
Extreme focal lengths and larger apertures mean bigger and heavier lenses, which along with the bigger price-tags is why they are typically used by professionals who can justify purchasing them. There are a number of other features which you may want think about, regarding your next lens. Image stabilization allows for use of slower shutter speeds without suffering camera shake though some brands incorporate this into camera bodies rather than the lens.
Stabilization is also very handy if you're shooting lots of video, in which case you might also want to think about lenses with power zooms which can zoom at adjustable speeds.
Weather-sealing means you can use your lens assuming your camera is equally weather-sealed in extreme weather conditions and normally also means a higher level of build quality. Other considerations include the use of special lens elements and coatings which can improve sharpness and reduce image problems such as chromatic aberration.
It's also worth thinking about whether you would benefit from a higher number of aperture blades which can give a more pleasing bokeh, and if you need lenses with internal focus motors, or indeed only manual focus. While the majority of photographers buy lenses from the same firm as their camera, there are a number of third party manufacturers such as Sigma, Tamron and Tokina which produce lenses for DSLRs and mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras.
They are often also considerably cheaper. Below are a number of typical situations that kit-lens-toting photographers often find themselves in. For each example, we've highlighted some of the factors that should be considered when trying to find the right lens for the job. While these are factors which are relevant whatever camera and lens system you're using, in each case we've also highlighted a couple of lenses that would be a good choice for specific set-ups without blowing the budget.
When you're on holiday or traveling, you probably don't want to be lugging several lenses and cameras around with you — unless you're the most dedicated of photographers, that is.
It's often the same if you're trying to enjoy a day with the family and don't want to spend all day changing lenses and moaning about your back. As such, a good all-day or travel lens would be one that was easy enough to carry around, but still offered you the freedom to capture shots from landscapes to portraits, and zoom in on distant objects. Street photography can be done with almost any lens, though a mm F2. However, a focal range of around mm is often seen as the ideal for capturing the moment in urban areas.
Unless you want all of your subjects looking directly at the camera, you'd probably be best served by something discrete.
It's also important that street photography lenses feature a fast maximum aperture for lower-light situations. This means that something like the Fuji XF 23 mm f1. The Sigma 35 mm F1. Many people shell out for a DSLR or mirrorless interchangeable lens camera when they have a child, but by the time that child starts running around, the kit lens struggles to keep up, both in terms of aperture and focal range.
This is especially true if you're trying to photograph the kids running around in the garden or on the sports field. This means you need something with a bit more reach, but probably without the bulk and weight that a professional lens would bring.
A zoom lens will allow you to keep your shots framed as you want while your subject moves around in front of you. While the kit lenses which come with most cameras are surprisingly good at the wide angle end, you could find that they don't quite go far enough for some of the landscape images you try to take.
So, unless you're able to keep moving backwards, you're going to need a new lens. Focal length is key here, and you'll only get some landscapes if you've got an ultra wide angle lens. You could go for either a prime or a zoom, but most people in this situation are probably going to be best-served by a zoom. After a while you might find that you've simply outgrown your kit lens. You suddenly find that it's stifling your creative ambitions and preventing you from taking the photos that you want, even if they are within its focal length reach.
This is the ideal time to get yourself a fast prime lens, and the good news is that you don't have to spend a fortune to do it. Because they are primes, it also means you need to zoom with your feet, which will in turn probably mean you spend more time thinking about how you compose shots. Never a bad thing. As we've seen, different lenses can give photographers the creative freedom to take all sorts of images. It's no understatement to say they are as important, if not more so, than the camera you're using.
But what do the numbers on a camera lens mean? These numbers refer to the focal length of the lens. While millimeters mm are used as a basic description of the lens, this is not a measurement of any dimensions of the lens itself.
Just know that the lower the number — in this case, 10mm — the more you can fit in the shot. For property photography, we want a nice low number so we can fit lots of detail in the shot. With the lens fully zoomed out at a 10mm focal length, you can fit loads of the room in the frame, perfect for showing off your vendors home like a pro. Back to the mm lens though, 10mm is on the low end of the scale.
Below, you can see an example of why images look much more professional when shooting with a DSLR and wide-angle lens with a 10mm focal length vs a phone with a 28mm focal length. This Sigma model is a zoom lens, offering a range from 10 to 20mm, which can be adjusted by twisting the zoom collar.
To recap and summarise; the lower the focal length number, the more you can fit in the photo. Perfect, m oving on…. This indicates the maximum aperture of your lens, this is the size of the hole that light it lets in.
The lower the number, the more light is allowed in. The ratio looks confusing, but this is simply how apertures are measured; just pay attention to the number after the colon! A useful analogy for aperture is thinking of a water pipe. A wide pipe lets through a lot of water quickly, a thin pipe lets water through more slowly.
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